Vehicle

1. Maintenance Schedule
- 1.1. Miata
- 1.2. Ninja 300
2. Miata

1 Maintenance Schedule

1.1 Miata

Bought: 05/08/2017 from Omaha, with 26800 miles on it.

Replace:

Item	Schedule	Log
Engine Oil & Filter	7500 (me 3000)	28000 miles 05/19/2017
		29340 miles 06/28/2017
		33750 miles 07/07/2017
		37279 miles 11/12/2017
		42887 miles 04/11/2018
		45445 miles 07/12/2018
		48752 miles 07/27/2018
		52030 miles 09/06/2018
		55700 miles 03/21/2019
		59000 miles 07/07/2019
		63300? miles 09/24/2019
Engine Timing belt (and front crankshaft seal)	60,000
Manual Transmission Oil	60,000	34015 miles 07/18/2017
Rear Differential Oil	60,000	33950 miles 07/16/2017
coolant	30,000 / 24	29310 miles 06/27/2017
Air filter	30,000 / 24 (me 15,000)	29340 miles 06/29/2017
		33900 miles 07/13/2017
		52030 miles 09/06/2018
Spark Plug	30,000 / 24 (me 15,000)	29340 miles 06/29/2017
		52030 miles 09/06/2018
Wiper	15,000 miles	05/11/2017
		08/05/2018
Wax		05/12/2017
		03/11/2018
break fluid		34060 miles 07/22/2017
clutch fluid		34060 miles 07/22/2017
Power Steering

Inspection:

Item	Schedule	Log
drive belt tension	30,000 / 24
cooling system	30,000 / 24
Tire Rotation	6000-8000	34060 miles 07/22/2017
		38813 miles 12/16/2017
		45445 miles 07/12/2018
		52700 miles 10/10/2018

1.2 Ninja 300

Bought on the beautiful summer of 2015.

Item	Schedule	Log
engine oil & oil filter		1000, 2015 Dec
		3000, 2016 summer
		5000, 2016 Dec
		6485 miles, 11/12/2017
		68xx miles, 11/10/2018
F/R break fluid change		05/15/2017
air filter		6600 miles, 07/10/2018
spark plug		6700 miles, 07/29/2018

2 Miata

2.1 General Info

Weight: 2943 lb

2.2 Electrical System

Before doing anything related to electrical system, disconnect the negative battery cable.

2.3 Jacking Positions

Front: center of the crossmember
Rear: center of the differential

Stand Position: both side of the vehicle, on side sills.

2.4 Engine Oil

drain plug tightening torque: 30-41 N.m
capacity
- oil replacement: 3.6L
- oil and oil filter replacement: 3.8L
- total (dry engine): 4.0L
replace every 3000 - 4000 miles
use 10W-30

2.5 Coolant

drain plug tightening torque: 0.7-1.1 N.m
capacity: 1.0L
step
- drain the coolant in the reservoir
- remove radiator cap and radiator drain plug
- drain coolant
- flush the cooling system with water until all traces of color are gone
- leave the system until drain completely
- tighten the radiator drain plug
- pour coolant into radiator up to the coolant filler port
- fill coolant into reservoir up to the FULL mark
- install radiator cap
- start and warm up engine
- after warmming up, run at 2500rpm for 5min

Change every 24 month or 30,000 miles

Mixture

above -16C: antifreeze 35% + water
above -26C: antifreeze 45% + water
above -40C: antifreeze 55% + water

Inspect

inspect when cool
full in radiator
between FULL and LOW in reservoir

2.6 Spark Plug

tightening torque: 15-22 N.m

2.7 Wheel and Tire

Temporary spare tire
- 60 psi
- tread life: 3000 miles
Size
- 195/50 R15 82V
- 205/45 R16 83W
Pressure: 26 psi
lug nut tightening torque: 89-117 N.m
tire rotation: every 6000-8000 miles
- For RWD and AWD
- parallel rear tires to front,
- cross front wheels to rear
Alignment: every 15,000 miles

Tire brands:

Continental DWS06: very good all-season
- $113 per tire, for size 205/45 R 16 83W
Bridgestone Blizzak WS80: winter tire
- put it on thanksgiving
- get it off easter (usually april)
- seems not having my size
Summer tire

2.8 Differential Oil

Inspection
- remove filler plug (23mm)
- verify that the oil is at the brim of the plug hole
filler plug tightening torque: 40-53 N.m
drain plug (24mm) tightening torque: 40-53 N.m
Replace
- remove fillter plug and drain plug
- drain
- install drain plug and a new washer
- add oil to the brim of the plug hole
- install filler plug
replace every 48 month or 60,000 miles
use SAE 90, 1 quat

2.9 Brake

2.9.1 Brake Fluid

Brake fluid will damage paint.

use DOT-3

Brake should be bled whenever a brake line is disconnected.

If the disconnection is master cylinder, Start at the brake caliper or wheel cylinder farthest from the brake master cylinder, and move to the next farthest.
If not master cylinder, start from the closest to the disconnection point.

2.9.1.1 Brake fluid air bleeding

jack up vehicle
remove bleeder cap, attach a vinyl tube to the bleeder screw
place the other end of tube to a brake fluid-filled container
the first person depress the brake pedal several times, then hold it in depressed position
the second person loosen the bleeder screw, drain out the fluid and closes the screw
repeat the first-second person steps until no air bubbles. The reservoir should be kept about 3/4 full during the process.
tightening torque (8mm): 5.9-8.8 N.m

2.9.1.2 brake fluid replacement

There is no such instruction in the manual. However, searching the internet gives me a rough idea

suck all the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster
wipe it
add new fluid
air bleeding

2.9.2 Disk

front disk pad thickness 1.0mm min. look through the caliper inspection hole and verify the remaining thickness of the pad.
front disk plate thickness 18.0mm min
rear disk pad thickness 1.0mm min
rear disk plate thickness 8.0mm min

2.10 Clutch

If any clutch pipe has been disconnected, add brake fluid and bleed the clutch.

use DOT-3
bleeder screw tightening torque: 5.9-8.8 N.m
clutch fluid replacement
- drain the fluid from the reservoir
- remove bleeder cap from the clutch release cylinder and attach a vinyl hose to the bleeder screw
- insert the other end of the vinyl hose into a clear container
- loosen the bleeder screw
- with another person slowly pumping the clutch pedal, drain the fluid from the clutch system, repeat until all fluid is drained
- tighten the bleeder screw
- fill the reservoir to MAX
- bleed the air from the clutch
clutch fluid air bleeding
- remove bleeder cap from the clutch release cylinder and attach a vinyl hose to the bleeder screw
- place the other end to a clear container
- pump clutch pedal several times
- with the clutch pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder screw, then close it.
- repeat last two steps until clean fluid is seen
- tighten the bleeder screw.

2.11 Transmission

check
- remove check plug at the driver side of the transmission
- verify that the oil is at the brim of the check plug hole
- apply sealant and install
check plug (24mm?) tightening torque: 25-39 N.m
drain plug (22mm?) tightening torque: 40-58 N.m
Transmission Oil Replacement
- remove drain plug and check plug
- drain the oil
- install drain plug with new washer
- add oil to check plug hole to the brim
- apply sealant to check plug and install
shift lever turret
- pump out the old fluid and fill in the new one. use the same oil as transmission fluid. Capacity: 80-95cc.
- apply grease to the shift lever component
- apply sealant to the contact surfaces of the shift lever component and the change control case.
other references
- http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/transmissiondifferential-oil-change-basics/
- https://www.miata.net/garage/trans/everything.html
replace every 48 month or 60,000 miles
use SAE 75W-90 GL-4, 2.1 quats

2.12 Power Steering

If any power steering fluid line has been disconnected, add ATF M-III or equivalent (e.g. Dexron II), bleed the fluid line.

Air Bleeding
- inspect fluid level
- turn the steering wheel fully to the left and right several times with the engine not running
- inspect fluid level. If it has dropped, add fluid
- repeat steps 2 to 3 until the fluid level stablizes.
- start the engine and let it idle
- turn the steering wheel fully to the left and right several times
- verify that the fluid is not foamy and that the fluid level has not dropped.
- repeat last two steps
There is no section for flush it. I think
- from the reservoir, pump out old fluid as much as I can
- add new ones
- do air bleeding